This classic Swedish lodge is located on the coastal edge of the Luleå archipelago, where the sea freezes metres thick in the winter, edged by snowy Arctic forests through which visitors can speed snowmobiles, mush huskies and indulge in all manner of polar fun. Just eight en suite rooms create an intimate atmosphere, while the lovely open plan heart of the lodge has a huge fireplace where guests warm up and swap stories. The lodge is particularly proud of its cuisine, featuring local favourites such as moose and char served with cloudberries, every dish accompanied by a glass or two of well-matched wine.
A trip to the Arctic opens the door to a whole new cuisine, the extreme climate and hectares of wilderness lending themselves to a range of exotic berries, crisp herbs and a selection of meat and fish that benefits from centuries of smoking, curing and drying expertise to preserve them for less bounteous seasons. At Pine Bay, Chef Frans Hedblad regularly dips into this trove to create an exciting repertoire of typically Lappish dishes, featuring moose, cloudberries, Arctic char, local caviar and, of course, reindeer.
There are just eight guestrooms at Pine Bay, ensuring an intimate atmosphere that matches the warm and welcoming feel imparted by the décor. Rooms – all with private bathrooms – are a relatively restrained affair, the emphasis on home comforts rather than lavish indulgence, and are cosy retreats from the snow.
The beauty of the frozen Luleå archipelago is all yours to explore, an expanse of frost to glide over on speedy snowmobiles. Alternatively, you can drive a pack of huskies, and enjoy their enthusiasm as they range forth. By night the land is plunged into that absolute darkness that only remote places experience, so the stars seem brighter still and are worth gazing at until the Northern Lights appear.