Earlier this month, I had the opportunity to visit Alta, a small city tucked away at the base of its namesake fjord in the far north of Norway – around 400 kilometres inside the Arctic Circle. Although I’d been further north than this before (when visiting Svalbard in 2024), this was a totally different experience. Alta is renowned for being one of the best places in Scandinavia to see the Northern Lights, but as I was visiting in early autumn, when the nights aren’t yet fully dark, this wasn’t the focus of my trip on this occasion. Instead, I was here to get a feel for the region’s beautiful nature, cultural heritage and diverse range of accommodation.
First impressions of Alta
Northern Lights Cathedral
After an early start and a brief stopover in Oslo, we landed in Alta, with fabulous views of the region’s many fjords and mountains on the descent. It took less than 10 minutes by taxi from the airport to the Canyon Hotel – a city centre property that blends modern comfort with Nordic charm. The room was comfortable for one person, but for two people I would suggest upgrading from the standard rooms to one of the higher categories – not just for the extra space, but also for a better view.
In the afternoon, I went out for a stroll through the city centre. Although rather compact – you can walk across it in just a few minutes – there are plenty of shops, cafes, bars and restaurants in Alta. The standout piece of architecture is undoubtedly the Northern Lights Cathedral, a gleaming, titanium-coated structure inspired by the swirls of the aurora.
In the evening, we enjoyed a tapas-style dinner at Raus Social, the on-site restaurant at Canyon Hotel. The idea behind the restaurant is to bring everyone together by sharing a bit of everything, with a selection of seasonal small plates inspired by the flavours of the Arctic.
Getting acquainted with Alta’s museums
Prehistoric rock art at the UNESCO World Heritage Alta Museum
Following an early buffet breakfast in the Raus Social restaurant area, we set off on a busy day of museum and hotel visits. We started with the House of Salmon, just across the road from Canyon Hotel. It’s not especially obvious from the outside, so you have to know it’s there! It’s an interesting exhibition and museum with lots of interactive games and displays about the salmon farming industry in Norway. They also offer free boat tours to the nearby salmon farm in the summer months.
Next, it was on to the Alta Museum, the UNESCO World Heritage site that houses an impressive collection of prehistoric rock carvings. It’s just a 10-minute taxi ride from the city centre, located right on the shore of the Alta Fjord with superb views from the café. We started with a walk outside in the sunshine to see the rock carvings, many of which date as far back as 7,000 years. There are two trails you can take, one of them 1.2 kilometres and another 3 kilometres. These rock carvings can only be seen in the months without snow and ice, typically from May to September. They also have an indoor exhibition with interactive displays that’s open throughout the year, which is particularly well suited to families.
Boutique lodges & meeting huskies
ONGA Boutique Lodge
From the Alta Museum, we then headed to ONGA Boutique Lodge, hidden away down a bumpy dirt track. Here, we had a traditional lunch of fish soup and reindeer stew in the cosy dining room in the main lodge, which very much feels just like a family home. Their rooms are elegant and luxurious but with a focus on nature, with grass roofs and wooden floors and furnishings. You can upgrade to the aurora spa rooms which each have a private jacuzzi and sauna, as well as access to their aurora domes.
From ONGA we headed back down the dirt track towards Alta and GLØD Explorer, an adventure company that offers all kinds of excursions, including guided Northern Lights hunts, fatbiking, snowshoe hiking, cross-country skiing, mountain biking and canoeing. We also took a look at their five aurora domes with views out to the wilderness and open sky, where on clear evenings, you can lie in bed and watch the Northern Lights. The domes are ensuite, but there’s only one communal shower in the main building, so the aurora domes are best suited to a unique one-night stay after a snowmobiling or fatbiking adventure.
Meeting the local residents
From here we drove down the road to Trasti & Trine, a small family business offering husky sledding expeditions, cooking classes and unique accommodation. They are passionate about their dogs and their food, with their own bakery and fine dining menus that follow the seasons. Unfortunately we did not get to try their food that they are so well known for, but it really is a great set up in the forest, with a main lodge with two guest rooms, a pub cabin, a sauna, a greenhouse, five cabins with views to the sky, and of course their dog kennels. They have 70 huskies that are all part of the family. The accommodation here is another beautiful and unique option for a night of comfort before or after a dog sledding expedition.
Then it was on to Holmen Husky Lodge for dinner in their main restaurant, where we were served a hearty fish stew followed by a chocolate fondant for dessert. We were then shown around the property, including the safari house where we learned about their experience on the 1,200km Finnmark Dog Sled race. It was clear to see how passionate they are about their dogs and how sledding is part of the lifestyle here, not just a job. We also saw their new and beautifully designed Forest Suites, all made from local materials. They had thought of everything including a huge window opposite the bed for clear views to the sky.
After a long day, it was time to head to our accommodation for the night, Gargia Lodge – a small B&B-style lodge with traditional Norwegian cabins. While the cabins and rooms are very cosy and comfortable, here the luxury is more in the peaceful nature and the plentiful choice of excursions on offer.
Arctic Wilderness Lodge, Alta Canyon & Sámi culture
Riverboat tour along the Alta Canyon
The next morning, after breakfast with views facing the river and forest, it was on to Sorrisniva and Arctic Wilderness Lodge – a truly remarkable property with stunning views directly overlooking the Alta River. You feel at peace as soon as you walk into the reception and panoramic lounge. Every room here has superb views and amenities, although I would recommend the river suites for a slightly more privileged position and the best views.
The neighbouring Igloo Hotel was not rebuilt just yet for the upcoming winter season, but we were shown the facilities – it really is a fantastic option for a luxury snowhotel experience.
At Sorrisniva we were taken on a riverboat tour down through the Alta Canyon. We boarded the traditional long riverboat and travelled down the river while learning about its importance for the region’s salmon fishing industry. After some river rapids, as you approach the furthest point in the canyon you can travel by boat, the scenery turns more mountainous with sheer cliffs and waterfalls tumbling among the trees. We even spotted a family of eagles on our way back to the hotel. It’s a brilliant experience, but even in summer it can be very windy and cold, so make sure to wrap up warm.
From Sorrisniva we drove up the mountain road to Paeskatun, a family-run slate quarry up in the mountain with views to the Alta Fjord in the distance. We learned all about the history of the slate industry in Alta and were shown how they use their tools to split a large piece of rock into pieces they can easily use to make roof tiles. Their slate is used worldwide but we saw lots of hotels in the area that have used their slate for their bathrooms or roofs.
Feeding reindeer at Sámi Siida
The final stop of the day was Sámi Siida, where we gained an insight into Sámi culture. They have traditional Sámi clothing on display and you can even have a go at lassoing a dummy reindeer. We sat around the fire for coffee and cake in a lavvu tent and listened to a traditional joik (Sámi singing). The best part was of course meeting and feeding the very friendly and greedy reindeer! Sámi Siida also have restaurant where they serve local dishes.
Bjornfell Mountain Lodge & cruising on the Alta Fjord
Finnmark Moods offer a wide range of boat safaris on the Alta Fjord
Our next stop was Bjornfell Mountain Lodge, where we were staying for the night. This cosy ski lodge is 25 minutes outside of Alta, beautifully located on the mountainside with its own ski slope. They have five cosy cabins and 15 rooms in the main lodge with a luxurious feel – think soft lighting, warm colours and lots of cosy sitting areas to relax in. The dinner here was delicious – a starter of goats cheese and beetroot ravioli with monkfish for main, again using locally sourced ingredients. This is a great lodge for those looking for comfort, but also an Arctic experience with opportunities for skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing or hunting the Northern Lights.
After breakfast at Bjornfell Mountain lodge it was time to head back to Alta for an Arctic Fjord cruise to Storekorsnes. Finnmark Moods offer a variety of fjord safaris, including a whale watching safari. Unfortunately, it was a little early in the season for any whale sightings (November to January is the best time), but it was a lovely day to sail through the fjord for a few hours, observing the birds and the small villages we passed. On arrival at Storekorsnes, a small fishing village, we learned about king crab fishing and watched them pull up a few nets before heading up to a cabin with wonderful views of the fjord, where we enjoyed another delicious fish soup.
Mountain hiking & a farewell dinner
Hiking up Komsa Mountain
On arrival back in Alta, we checked into our final hotel of the trip, Thon Hotel Alta. It’s in a great spot right in the city centre, within striking distance of numerous shops, bars and restaurants. I even had a view of the Northern Lights Cathedral from my room.
In the afternoon, we were taken on a hike up Komsa Mountain, the starting point of which lies about five minutes’ drive from the city centre. It’s a relatively easy hike with only a few hundred metres elevation, but there are a few steep and slippery sections, so I would recommend sturdy shoes with a good grip. It took about 40 minutes to reach the top, and it was well worth it for the views. You could see the whole area, including the city centre (which looked tiny from above), the fjords, the airport, the museum and even some of the hotels and places we had been during the trip. We stopped for a quick hot toddy and chocolate and then began our descent, which felt much quicker.
Finally, after returning to the city, we had one final dinner at Erica restaurant in the city centre. Erica restaurant serves a variety of Norwegian and European dishes including reindeer, stockfish, Nordic tapas and also pizzas and pastas, so there is something for everyone. It was an ideal way to end the trip before flying back home the next morning.
Final thoughts & observations
Trasti & Trine
I very much enjoyed my time in Alta and while we certainly packed a lot into a relatively short space of time, it provided a really strong sense of what the town and the wider region has to offer. What really stands out here is the varied mix of cultural experiences on offer alongside abundant opportunities for adventures in nature. It’s easy to be wowed by the spectacular landscapes, but it’s also fascinating to learn about the history of the region and the traditions its people proudly uphold today.
As I discovered, there’s also an excellent range of places to stay, from modern city centre hotels and cosy mountain hideaways to luxury wilderness retreats – so there are plenty of options to suit a wide range of tastes and budgets. Alta really lends itself to those seeking an authentic experience in the Norwegian Arctic, with a quieter, less commercial feel than other more established destinations where tourism is much larger scale. And of course, it would be a totally different experience to come back here and see it in winter, when the landscapes are blanketed in snow and the night sky is illuminated by the Northern Lights.
