A few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to visit the Sognefjord area in Norway and see the beautiful fjord during autumn, which, as it happens, is my favourite season. The trip started in Bergen, where I enjoyed a walk around the city, visiting the Bryggen area and strolling around Lille Lungegårdsvannet, where the Bergen Modern Art Museum and KODE Art Museums are located. Skostredet is a small street with some lovely cafés, restaurants and a little ice cream shop where I sampled their Brunost (brown cheese) ice cream. I would recommend having a taste; it is almost like a mellow salted caramel.
After a short time in Bergen, we headed to Bergen Harbour for our express boat to Balestrand in the Sognefjord. This is a great way to travel to the fjords, with the chance to admire the views along the way. On our arrival in Balestrand, we checked into Kviknes Hotel, a historic, family-owned and operated fjord hotel that offers good-quality accommodation with easy access to the Sognefjord. In the evening, we got to enjoy the famous buffet dinner, with plenty of freshly prepared options for meat-eaters, fish lovers and vegetarians, all using local ingredients. After a good night's sleep, we were able to take a closer look at the hotel and see some of the newly updated suites in the historic section.
After this, we had a walking tour of the town to learn more about the rich history and culture of the region. For lunch, we enjoyed a fantastic meal at the Ciderhuset (Cider House), accompanied by a cider tasting. This is a great way to sample some of the local produce in a beautiful setting and learn about the history of the apple farm as well.
Over the next few days, we travelled further into the Sognefjord, exploring some of its less-visited corners. We stayed at Walaker Hotel in Solvorn, which offers a lovely stay in the heart of the Sognefjord. The food was fantastic, with beef cheek served as the main course at dinner, and the breakfast buffet, complete with à la carte options, is well worth waking up for.
One of the highlights of the trip was the RIB safari along the fjord. Getting to admire the majestic, almost movie-like scenery, with Edvard Grieg playing in the background, was an experience that will stay with me for a very long time. We were even lucky enough to have a pair of harbour porpoises come and play right beside the boat.
Hofslund Fjord Hotel in Sogndal offers an ideal base from which to explore the fjord, glacier and surrounding area. The hotel is now in the hands of the fifth generation of the family, who have been busy updating the property and all its rooms. They have done a beautiful job, and one of the hotel's special features is its heated outdoor pool.
BesteBakken, a beautiful hotel overlooking the glacier lake Hafslovatnet, was our next stop. Owner Lindis has done a great job of creating a cosy and unique place to stay. Here, you will be hosted by Lindis and her team and share meals with the other guests. Everything, from the décor and design to the food being served, has a story behind it. They also offer accommodation among their alpacas in rooms with panoramic views of the village of Hafslo and the lake.
They offer experiences such as cooking classes and storytelling, along with tours of sights in the surrounding area. You can also explore the glacier lakes by RIB boat and cycle back to the village along their shores. Alternatively, this route can be done by car. If you are looking for something more active, you can even hike to the glacier itself.
Next, we headed back along the Sognefjord and then on to the Aurlandsfjord, one of the fjord's most spectacular branches. On our way, we stopped to see the Raven's Nest Treetop Cabin, painstakingly built and carved by the Husum family on their farm high above the Sognefjord. The cabin is Norse-inspired and offers spectacular views over the fjord. In Aurland, we stayed at Wangen Apartments, located only a 10-minute drive from Flåm. It is a great place to stay slightly away from the main crowds while still enjoying excellent access to the area's activities and experiences. From here, you can visit the Stegastein Viewpoint or take a trip on the scenic Flåm Railway.
The apartments offer spacious accommodation with fantastic views over the fjord. A kitchen and a supermarket just one minute away provide the option to cook your own meals or prepare something light if you do not feel like eating out every evening. They also have a floating sauna that can be booked privately.
Aurland 29/2, located just down the road beside the Aurlandselvi, a river flowing into the Aurlandsfjord, offers a different style of accommodation. With a clear ethos centred on sustainability and slow travel, it is a place where you can enjoy excellent food made with local ingredients, much of it sourced from their own garden, while taking time to reflect, relax and enjoy the cosy, beautifully designed rooms. It feels almost like a small village, with accommodation spread across several different buildings throughout the grounds.
The next morning, we caught the train from Flåm to Myrdal and experienced fantastic mountain views along the way. If you are taking the train from Flåm to Myrdal, the best views can be found on the right-hand side. Seating is unreserved, so if you want to secure the best seats, it is worth joining the queue early.
From Myrdal, I changed trains and continued on to Oslo for the weekend. I stayed at the recently renovated and reopened Savoy 1918. The hotel is only four tram stops from the main railway station or a very short taxi ride away. Beautifully restored, the hotel reflects its history, with plenty of seating in the lobby should you wish to read your morning paper or relax after exploring the city.
The Watt Restaurant serves a small buffet breakfast featuring cold meats, cheeses, freshly baked breads, yoghurt, cereals and berries, alongside a small à la carte menu. I would recommend trying the waffles. The hotel also has a gym and a wellness area with a sauna, cold plunge pool and small relaxation pool, all free for guests. In Oslo, I would highly recommend the Oslo Pass, as it gives you free use of public transport throughout the city, as well as local trains to the airport (excluding the Flytoget). It also includes free or discounted entry to many sights and museums, along with discounts at selected restaurants. During my stay, I explored Vigeland Sculpture Park, the MUNCH Museum and the Henrik Ibsen Museum, where visitors can tour the apartment in which he spent the last 10 years of his life and view an exhibition of his works.
