There aren’t many cities where you can stand on the frozen sea while watching the Northern Lights swirling majestically across the night sky. In Luleå, the capital of Sweden’s Norrbotten County, this is just a normal part of life in winter. The prospect of walking on the famous isbana (ice road) had long piqued my interest, and earlier this month I finally had the chance to experience it in person. I spent a couple of days in the city of Luleå itself, followed by a wonderful stay at Brändön Lodge – a cosy and secluded timber-clad lodge on the shore of the frozen Bothnian Bay, and a consistent favourite among Best Served Scandinavia staff and clients alike. This twin-centre combination provided a perfect introduction to the coastal stretch of Swedish Lapland, a region which offers a rare blend of urban attractions in close proximity to vast swathes of pristine wilderness.
Part one: Exploring Luleå
Walking on the ice road in Luleå
Before even touching down in Luleå, I was treated to a remarkably vibrant display of the Northern Lights from my window seat on the short flight north from Stockholm. Once on the ground, getting from the airport to the city centre took just 15 minutes by bus, and I checked into the Elite Stadshotellet – an excellent base right in the heart of the downtown area, facing out across a small park (Stadsparken) and the red-brick, neo-Gothic style Luleå Cathedral.
The following morning, I stepped outside to a perfectly clear sky and exceptionally cold, crisp air with the temperature hovering around -18°C. I set my sights on Norra Hamn (the Northern Harbour) to begin my much anticipated hike along the ice road, which connects the city with the islands of the nearby Luleå archipelago. Due to the freshwater flow from numerous major rivers, the Bothnian Bay has brackish water with very low salinity, which enables it to freeze over relatively quickly when the temperatures drop below zero. The ice road typically opens at some point in December and remains open through to April – though conditions vary from year to year.
Gråsjälören island (left) and the crane at Södra Hamn (right)
Making my way around Luleå’s central peninsula and under the distinctive arches of the Bergnäsbron bridge, the ice road glinted beautifully beneath the low-lying winter sun. The central part of the ice track is regularly paved to create ideal conditions for skating and kick-sledding, while the unpaved ice on either side is more suitable for walking, jogging and cycling. I picked up one of the free-to-use kick sleds and continued round to Södra Hamn (the Southern Harbour), which is marked by a towering black crane – an enduring symbol of Luleå’s industrial heritage – and several newly installed Sámi artworks.
Finally, I headed over to Gråsjälören, a small, wooded island where a community-run café serves waffles and hot drinks on weekends. When the flag on the island is raised, you know for sure that the cafe is open. Warming up by a firepit with a waffle and a hot chocolate in hand, gazing out across the frozen sea as the sun began to set, I could hardly imagine a more enjoyable way to spend a winter’s day. Later that evening, I returned to Norra Hamn with the intention of seeing the Northern Lights, and was met by an awe-inspiring display of vivid green and pink ribbons flickering across the star-studded night sky – initially on the horizon, and later directly overhead.
Gammelstad Church Town
The next day, I took the bus to explore another of Luleå’s must-see sights – the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Gammelstad Church Town. This is where Luleå was originally established in the 1620s, but due to post-ice age land uplift, the harbour became too shallow and the town was relocated closer to the coast in 1649. Gammelstad consists of over 400 red cottages clustered around a 15th-century stone church, and is one of the best preserved examples of a traditional church town. These were built across the northern reaches of Scandinavia to provide a place to stay for churchgoers coming from far away to attend services. After meandering among the narrow lanes of Gammelstad, I stumbled across Lustigbacken 3 – a charming wooden house which has been lovingly converted by its owners into an artisan chocolate shop and fika cafe. If you find yourself in Gammelstad, I’d heartily recommend stopping here for a hot chocolate and a homemade cinnamon bun.
Part two: Brändön Lodge
A crisp winter's day at Brändön Lodge
The second leg of my Swedish Lapland adventure brought me to Brändön Lodge, which lies around a 30-minute drive north of Luleå. Having heard many good things from my colleagues who’d stayed there previously, it didn’t take long to see why it enjoys such a glowing reputation. Its setting is idyllic, tucked away among the boreal forest that lines the shore of the Bothnian Bay. There are just 15 two-bedroom cabins, while the main lodge houses a cosy bar, lounge and reception area downstairs and a restaurant upstairs.
At Brändön Lodge, there’s a real emphasis on authenticity and warm, genuine hospitality, underpinned by the fantastic team who really go the extra mile to ensure you have the best possible experience. The atmosphere is very much relaxed and informal, and you are superbly looked after in every respect, from meal times to guided activities.
Northern Lights at Brändön Lodge
On my first evening at the lodge I enjoyed a delicious dinner of Arctic char with herb-buttered potatoes and vegetables, followed by a dessert of dark chocolate mousse with lingonberry compote and a biscuit crumb. The food is largely based on local produce, so dishes typically feature the likes of freshly caught fish, reindeer or moose, but the chefs will also gladly prepare alternatives to suit your dietary requirements. Breakfast, meanwhile, is served buffet-style, with a plentiful selection of continental and cooked options to choose from.
I awoke the next morning to pastel-hued skies and a fresh dusting of snow outside – prime conditions for venturing out on a snowmobile adventure. We began by gliding out across the glittering frozen sea, pausing at one of the nearby islands before crossing back on to land for a journey through the snow-laden forests where we stopped for fika in the sunshine. Having been snowmobiling several times previously, including in Svalbard, Greenland and Finnish Lapland, this was perhaps my favourite snowmobile ride so far – the contrasting scenery you get here in Swedish Lapland, gliding between the frozen sea and the forests, is something special.
Dog sledding on the frozen sea
That evening, we enjoyed a truly magnificent display of the Northern Lights right in front of the lodge, with some of the brightest and fastest-moving auroras I’ve ever seen. We stood, totally captivated, for over an hour as the Northern Lights painted the sky with luminous greens and flashes of pink, clearly visible to the naked eye. Owing to the lack of artificial light pollution in the area, Brändön Lodge is a fantastic place to see the Northern Lights, and at this latitude (just shy of 66 °N), you don’t even need especially high solar activity to witness dazzling displays.
I began my final full day at Brändön Lodge with a hike on the frozen sea, out to one of the nearby islands and back through the forests. Then, in the afternoon, it was time for another exhilarating adventure: husky sledding. After a short demonstration teaching us the basics of ‘mushing’ (steering the sled), we set off across the frozen sea, gliding smoothly along the snow-blanketed trails with the most spectacular sunset on the horizon, as though the sky was ablaze. Two people tend to share a sled, with several opportunities to switch roles along the way. It was surprisingly easy to get to grips with, as the huskies were so well trained that they knew to follow our instructor who was travelling by snowmobile in the distance. After winding back through the forests, we warmed up with a hot chocolate and a brownie beside a roaring fire in a wooden kota (hut) – a perfect way to round off an incredible experience.
Overall impressions
For me, Swedish Lapland has the best of all worlds; breathtaking nature, vibrant towns and cities, and a phenomenal range of unique and unusual accommodation. It receives fewer visitors than Finnish Lapland or Arctic Norway, but it offers all the same classic winter activities, alongside plenty of attractions that can’t be found anywhere else. I’d certainly recommend spending a night or two in Luleå itself to begin with, allowing sufficient time to walk on the ice road, visit Gammelstad and experience the city’s thriving culinary scene. It’s got a low key, down to earth feel about it which I really connected with; it doesn’t feel in any way overcrowded or overcommercialised. The ice road, for instance, is the city’s star attraction, but it’s completely free and open for everyone, and it’s enjoyed every day by locals just as much as by visitors.
If you’re looking for a traditional Swedish log cabin experience that’s both intimate and authentic, with hearty local cuisine and a full programme of winter activities to choose from, Brändön Lodge ticks all the boxes. Around this time of year, I think, is absolutely ideal, as you have a balance of ample daylight, strong chances of spotting the Northern Lights, lots of snow and a fully frozen sea. Three nights at the lodge was just about enough, but I would gladly have stayed longer and will definitely look to return. In fact, I’m already contemplating my next visit…
If you'd like to find out more about Brändön Lodge, Best Served Scandinavia specialist Charlie Pritchard spent the 2024/25 winter season living and working there – and you can read the full account of his experience here.
